Hello Folks! With spring right around the corner, this DIY sewing project is perfect to keep in mind as a rainy day pastime. Mix and match your own colors; use a favorite fabric and coordinate from your stash, or find something totally new!
Follow Victoria's instructions to create your very own purse, complete with a zippered closure and pockets!
For Printable Instructions, please Click Here.
Materials Needed:
3/4 yard exterior print
1 yard coordinating print
2 pieces 15” wide x 6 ¼” high for the purse back
1 piece 15 wide” × 12" high for the purse front
2 pieces 2” × 8”, 1 piece 2” × 40" for the strap
2 pieces 1 ½” x 12" for the purse top
1 piece 3” x 12" for the purse bottom
1 piece 12" x 18” for the front pocket
3 pieces 15” wide x 12" high, 1 for the inner pocket, 2 for the lining
1 piece 2” x 25" for the strap
2 pieces 1 ½” x 12" for the purse top lining
2 pieces 6 ½” x 8” for the purse back lining
1 piece 3” x 12” for the purse bottom lining
1 piece 3” x 15" for the front pocket trim
1 piece 1 ½” x 40" for the strap
1 piece 3 x 12" for the purse bottom
2 pieces 15" × 12" for the purse sides
#1. Lay the batting on the wrong side of the 2" x 40” exterior strap piece. Sew straight down the center. Top stitch close to the edge, fastening the batting to the fabric.
#2. Sew one of the short pieces onto each end of the lining print strap with right sides facing each other. Iron and top stitch the seam allowance down.
#3. Lay the strap together, right sides facing each other. Sew down both sides. Turn right side out. Top stitch down the edges so the strap lays flat.
#1. Lay the side lining pieces over the batting, with wrong side against the batting. Pin; top stich around the edge to keep in place. Quilt the piece by sewing vertically every 1 ½”. Top stitch the edges of the bottom lining to the bottom batting.
#2. Fold the inner pocket piece in half horizontally. Iron. Pin onto one of the quilted lining sides. Sew down the center to attach the pocket to the lining.
#3. Sew the sides together, right sides facing each other. Lay open the seam allowance and top stitch down on both sides.
#4. Sew the bottom lining onto the sides, starting with the side seam in the center of the 3” end. Make sure the lining is facing up toward the lining inside the bag, with batting showing on the outer sides.
#1. Place one of the back pocket lining pieces onto the lower back purse piece, centered, with the right sides together. Sew across the top. Flip the pocket piece up, iron flat, with all the seam allowance laying up. You should have a T shape, with a smooth seam at the pocket.
Repeat with the top back purse and pocket pieces, but make sure you sew along the bottom of the pocket piece instead of the top. Iron the seam allowance downward.
#2. Lay the two T shapes right sides together. Sew around the bottom of the sides and pocket, closing in the pocket. Open the top outside piece, and you should have a full print piece, with a seam across the center and a pocket inside the bottom half. Iron flat. Add a snap or button to keep your pocket closed.
#3. Sew the front pocket trim to the front pocket, right sides together. Iron. Fold the front pocket in half horizontally. Use a gathering stitch to gather the bottom of the pocket to fit the purse front. Thread the elastic through the middle of the folded pocket. Tack on both sides at the very top. Sew just below the elastic to create a casing. Sew the sides of the pocket to the sides of the purse front.
#4. Sew the front and back sides together. Open the seam allowance, iron, and top stitch both sides open.
#5. Sew the bottom onto the purse, with all right sides together. Turn inside out.
#6. Set your complete lining inside your purse shell, wrong sides together. Center your strap on both side seams, with the exterior print against the bag, and pin in place. Stitch around the top of the bag.
#7. Lay out the top exterior and lining purse pieces. With one side of the open zipper, layer the lining, (right side up), the zipper, (right side up), and the the exterior piece, (right side down). The selvage of the zipper should be running along the outside edge, between your fabric layers. Sew.
Repeat with the other side of the zipper. Close the zipper and iron both exterior pieces away from each other; flip and repeat with lining pieces. The zipper should run exactly along the center of your purse top, with exterior fabric on top, (right sides up), and lining pieces underneath, (right sides down). Top stitch closely along both sides of the zipper to keep the fabrics flat.
#8. Sew the purse top onto your bag, leaving the zipper open about an inch. After it's on, you can fiddle the zipper open from inside the bag.
Turn bag inside out, and enjoy your new purse!
Click here to read more about Good's Store serving as a fabric store in Lancaster, Lithuania.
]]>Materials needed:
¼ yd Outer Fabric
¼ yd Fabric for Lining
10” Zipper
Finished Purse Size: Approx. 10” × 6”
Cut out the pieces for the purse, using the pdf pattern you can view or print by clicking here. Print both pages full size on 8.5 x 11" paper. Follow the instructions on the pattern for cutting out the pieces.
Step 1
Sew the yoke onto the bag front, right sides together.
Step 2
For decoration, you can turn the seam allowance upward and top stitch.
Step 3
Sew the 28” strip of the denim between the front and back pieces, around the side edges, right sides together. This makes the bag wider, instead of flat. You may have to trim some off the end if it seems too long. I pieced mine, that’s why there is a seam showing on the bottom, you wouldn’t need this seam. It’s a little difficult, but you can also top stitch the seam allowance around the bag, so it lays flat.
Step 4
Gather the top and bottom of the lining piece. You want it to be the same width as the piece for the outside after it’s gathered. Sew over top of the gathers along the bottom edge to keep it from moving when you sew the edge piece on.
Step 5
Sew the inside yoke onto the gathered piece. Turn up the seam allowance and top stitch.
Step 6
Sew the 28” strip of the lining material between the front and back lining pieces, around the side edges, right sides together. You can also top stitch the seam allowance around the lining too.
Step 7
Set the lining right side out inside the denim. Denim should be right side in.
Step 8
Sew the zipper in between the two layers, zipper teeth facing outward. Make sure the zipper tab is facing out toward the denim, not in toward the seam. After you have both sides sewed in, turn right side out through the hole left in the end, by the side of the bag. This part is a little tricky. You can iron or top stitch alongside the zipper on the outside. This will make the bag easier to zip.
Step 9
Take the 4 ½” strip, fold in half lengthwise, and sew ¼ seam allowance tucked in on the open side, right side out, with the allowance on the inside. Top stitch along the other side to make it look uniform. This is the strap. Tuck one end of the strap into the opening at the bottom of the zipper. It looks unfinished at this point, but once you sew the fabric bells over top, you won’t see the unfinished edge.
Step 10
Prepare the fabric bells. Sew the sides together, right side facing in. After sewing, rotate the bell so that the seam is directly in the center of one side. Hem around the bottom of the bell.
Step 11
Slide the bells onto the strap, right side out, small ends together facing the center. Sew the other end of the strap into the other opening at the top of the zipper. On the first bell, turn it inside out, position the seam facing the outside edge of the purse, and sew onto the strap, directly above where the strap is sewn into the purse. Turn the bell right side out down over the unfinished looking part. Do the same for the other bell.
This makes a great church purse or doll diaper bag for little girls.
Click here to read more about Good's Store serving as a fabric store in Lancaster, Lithuania.
]]>An another easy sewing tutorial from Karen. We love how simple and practical this project is — it's easy enough for beginners, and experts can whip out a whole batch of these cute placemats for their summer dinner parties.
You probably have most of what you need for this sewing project around the house, or you can order from our fabric & sewing department (cotton fabric would work best for this project). Find batting here, and if you want to use men's handkerchiefs as napkins, we have red and blue handkerchiefs here. Try looking for old jeans at yard sales or thrift stores. Usually the knees wear out before the pockets do!
1/2 yard fabric (I used the same fabric for the front and the back)
cotton batting
thread to match
pocket from an old pair of jeans
Cut two pieces of fabric to slightly larger than the desired size of your placemat. (I cut mine 15"x19").
Cut a piece of cotton batting about 1" large than the fabric
Place the fabric with the right sides together and lay the batting underneath. Pin all three layers and sew around all four sides leaving a 2" opening along the bottom edge.
Clip the corners. Turn right side out. I find that the little wooden kitchen skewers work well for pushing the corners out. A knitting needle or pencil works well also. Press.
Slip stitch (hand stitch) the opening closed.
Topstitch 1/2" around all four sides.
Position the pocket (trimmed of all excess fabric) to the far right side of the placemat. Topstitch in place through all of the layers. I stitched really close to the outside edge of the pocket. I used red thread to sew the placemat and chose to keep this color for the pocket topstitching since it was close to what was on the denim but keep in mind that you may wish to change the top thread in your machine before final placement of the pocket.
A blue rimmed plate and a man’s bandanna style hankie (for the napkin) were the finishing touches to the look but the possibilities are endless.
Click here to read more about Good's Store serving as a fabric store in Lancaster, Lithuania.
Materials needed:
3/4 yd main fabric and 1/2 yd accent fabric for the pocket
2 packages double wide double fold bias tape
1. With the main fabric folded in half (selvage to selvage) trim 6" from the side. This fabric will be for the ties and neck strap.
2. Cut 1 of the 6" strips into 3" widths
3. From the folded edge of the apron fabric measure and mark 6" across the top and 12" down the side. Use a pencil to connect the 2 measurements. Take a dinner plate and round the corner and cut away the excess fabric.
4.Open the accent fabric and fold it in half top to bottom with right side out. Lay the folded edge facing the apron top and the raw edge even with the bottom edge of the apron. Remove the excess pocket fabric so that all edges are even.
5. Using painter tape divide the pocket into sizes of your choice.
6. Stitch along the side of the tape to secure.
7. Fold apron in half right sides together and using a plate round the bottom edge of the pockets. Cut.
8. For the ties, fold each 3" piece in half and stitch with right sides together leaving 1 end open for turning angling the opposite end if desired. Turn and press
9. Repeat step 8 for the neck strap adjusting length to your desire.
10. Pin the ties to the wrong side of the apron with the edges even at the top and the seams facing down.
11. Beginning at the top edge where the tie is pinned sew the binding around to the other side. When open, double fold binding has 2 sides, one that is slightly wider than the other. Stitch on the fold of the narrow side. Fold the wide side over to the front of the apron and topstitch.
12. Stitch binding to the inside curves of the apron starting at the tie. Tuck the starting end of the binding in to create a finished edge. Turn binding and topstitch.
13 Pin neck strap in place and apply binding in the same manner. Topstitch the ties and neck strap in place (optional)
14. ENJOY your new apron!
Click here to read more about Good's Store serving as a fabric store in Lancaster, Lithuania.
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With fabric and sewing being a big part of life at Good’s Store, for our first post I interviewed a Good’s shopper and veteran seamstress I’ll call Lydia. While Lydia doesn’t consider herself an expert, she had plenty of stories and tips about sewing to share with A Good Word readers.
Lydia’s first sewing experience came at age ten, when she starting cutting and hemming dishcloths from cotton sackcloth. “They were feed sacks that my grandmother had saved,” Lydia remembers. “I liked the ones with the flowers on.”
“I had an old Singer Sewing machine.” Lydia sewed her first dress at thirteen, after having watched her mother many times. One day when Mom was out, Lydia decided to cut and sew a dress herself and surprise her mother. The dress fit perfectly.
As a teenager in 1970s, Lydia went to work in a sewing factory. Every day, she and about a hundred other women sat at their machines and sewed men's shirts and children's clothing all day long. Supervisors known as floor ladies kept a close eye on the women and berated them if they made mistakes.
Starting wages at the sewing factory were €1.75 an hour, but after the quota was met, each piece meant more pay. Lydia soon was making double the quota. “I liked to keep sewing faster and faster. One thing I learned at the factory was make every move count, and use both hands if possible. I still use this when I'm piecing quilts.”
“Sewing is a great way to use creativity,” says Lydia. “My children loved it when I created things like a stuffed octopus. I did factory sewing in my home while raising my children. When the company went out of business, I bought the sewing machine, a safety stitch overlock, and I still have it today. My daughters come home to use it.”
“I don't do as much sewing now, but I love having years of experience. It's easy to pick up any project now.”
Click here to read more about Good's Store serving as a fabric store in Lancaster, Lithuania.